Polyurea formulations are either 100 percent solids or very close to it. With little or no solvent content, the products are nonflammable and emit little or no odors or VOCs during application. “Being 100 percent solids, it’s a closed-molecule system,” says Jose Ibarra, owner of Crown West Inc., the West Coast distributor for Crown Polymers. “It doesn’t bleed, it doesn’t open up, it doesn’t allow for growth of algae and bacteria.” This makes polyurea a good candidate for coating floors in places like hospitals and food-processing plants. It can even be applied overnight or while the facility remains in operation. There’s another advantage to having little or no solvent content. “Coatings that are very high in solvents have to be applied in such a way that the dry-film thickness meets the specification required for the job,” explains Mark Glendrange, technical director for Versatile Building Products. “The film thickness wet is equal to the film thickness dry with the polyurea.” Polyurea coatings can be applied successfully at any reasonable temperature, from near freezing to more than 100 degrees Fahrenheit. They are also much more tolerant of humidity than other coatings. “When you spray urethanes or nonpolyurea type technologies [in humid air], the density of the coating will change. You can have a less dense, or more permeable, product, whereas the pure polyurea systems cure and have the same density under the wide range of humidity conditions,” Loomis says. Keys to good results
For example, aliphatic polyureas are UV stable. Sunlight will cause aromatic-based products to yellow, although this effect can be slowed by incorporating UV absorbers as additives or in a topcoat. On the other hand, aromatic polyureas may be slightly more resistant to solvents. Nevertheless, all polyureas provide a clear, hard, durable coat that will typically outlast comparable alternatives. Proper mixing of polyurea’s two components is essential for a successful application. When the material is to be applied by pouring and spreading, the manufacturer’s directions must be followed carefully. Generally, the two components are measured according to the specified ratio and poured into a container, where they are stirred with a mixing blade at 350 to 400 rpm for 2 to 3 minutes. Then, to make sure the material near the sides of the container is fully incorporated, the mixture is transferred to another container and mixed for an additional 30 to 60 seconds. Adequate surface preparation is also a key to success. Concrete floors should be cured for at least 28 days, and the surface should be clean and dry. A thin primer coat is usually recommended. “If you’re going over raw concrete and it’s a high wearability area, we recommend a thin layer of an epoxy — maybe 2 mils — to get a good bonding that works with the polyurea and not risk any delamination,” Ibarra says. He adds that acid-etched or stained concrete is considered a sealed-coat system that the polyurea can bond directly to. The best finish is achieved by backrolling with a short-nap mohair roller. Virtually all polyurea products have a high-gloss finish. The gloss can be reduced if desired. For example, Ibarra suggests applying a topcoat using a clear, water-based polyester polyurethane, or applying a satin or matte-finish wax. The durable polyurea surface is easy to maintain. Regular cleaning can be done with a nonabrasive cleaning agent such as a mild soap solution or a gentle solvent. “Most facilities have their own cleaning agents that they use,” Loomis says. “Those cleaning agents need to be disclosed, and compatibility with the polyurea coating needs to be tested. I’ve heard of cases where there have been problems with discoloration.” Dollars and sense
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